Відео

Fantastic waiting for next stage

I think you need to use cyclone filters, no need to change it every use

Also you should control how much gas some how the goes to the carb and have it so it’s blown in to the carb efficiently as possible

So I've got my table built and running open builds control software. It's moving as expected. I found open builds cam (online) and open builds control (stand alone) to be excellent freeware. I'm using the MKS DLC32 V2.1 board with built-in Wi-Fi. Unfortunately open builds control doesn't communicate with the Wi-Fi on the board. I was told you can flash the card with grblhal and then open builds control and the Wi-Fi on the card will play nice together. I tried that not knowing what I was doing and then lost all of my ability to control the machine. Then after spending a nightmare day wading through forums and folders I discovered MKS laser tool could be used to reinstall the original bin file. But that process had me extremely irritated. Anyway all is back to normal and I figured out how to wirelessly communicate with the board using the manufacturers methods. The board has a SD card slot so you can upload a file to cut and not be connected to a computer. The documentation on the board (owner's manual PDF I found online) suggests using the spindle output to trigger any relays. It states that the output voltage on the spindle terminal connector is equal to whatever you have supplied the board with - and the board accepts 12 to 24 volts (I have a 24 volt power supply). Incidentally, the board also has some 5volt PWM outputs which I'm sure could also be tapped into for tripping a relay to the plasma trigger wire. So I'm in a bit of a quandary over what relay I should buy and what terminals to connect to. I noticed your machine had a signal wire leading to the torch head were you attached your relay. I would think that signal wire would be subject to a lot of emi. I'm planning to keep my plasma cutter and cable as far away as possible from the control box. Eventually I'm going to get some shielded twisted pairs to run to the motors but for now I'm going to take the cheap route and try to cover them with copper tape to help prevent interference. If you get a chance and can look up the MKS DLC32 V2.1 owner's manual PDF (I'm sure Google would lead you to it quickly) and just take a glance at the board wiring layout and let me know what you think about wiring the relay, I would be forever indebted. Either way, hope all is well with you and yours and your many projects. Best. Robert

Can this be used for acrylic?

A good, cheap and simple method of sealing the lid of the barrel with the wood is, covering it with dough. Fire solidifies it and creates airtight seal.

need air

dioxide son ok let me tell you a story that hound to me in 1962. first I think it. is fear to tell you I was Born of the grid in 1952 & we used A wood gasifier to power & charge Our battery bank. So back to the story that gave me the secret to good gas. When I left school I could not read or write & That is why you will not have heard this before. As you may know in 1962 we had a very cold & long winter, & we couldn't keep our wood dry. so we had a lot of damp smocks that which you have in your experiments. I had a hell of a job Keeping the gas & gen set running. So like You, I plaid about & found the blue flame was Monoxide, & the good dad told me it should be a very light yellow or white, he called it hydrocarbons. well, I decided to put the damp smock into a hot colom of charcoal & the resulting gas when mixed with air drove the generator faultlessly. a did so for many years. incredibly, it matters not the dampness in the smoke but the ability to send it into a burning colom of charcoal that improves the gas is barns. & the oxygen is burnt off we get copperas amounts of hydrogen & tar free. over the years I have seen & I have noticed some using Steam to do the same thing of late on the net. in closing I hope this puts you on the right track to further development. One the pit you have & the churn will make you a great charcoal provider do not bother trying to run your gen set. on it better Bild your self a charcoal colom & barn the air inlet suck the air into the colom & light it feed it with drips of water your engine will run. When you add air into the crabeater valve, Mack charcoal from copies of wood & use that to run the gen set . to charge your battery bank. So there you have it hope to see you up & running soon.

Bring me interesting if I can use coconut shells the ones that put through a process to make charcoal it would be a win win without tampering with nature putting no pollution into the environment

I think most gasifiers would pull air through naturally or forcefully which in your design is impossible as you have a closed chamber which has to build enough pressure to push through all of the gas resistince any component will add. Its pretty likely there is so little oxygen the engine is getting choked out. At the rate you are heating the reactor i would also really recommend turning the wood into a fine material so the pyrolisis can keep up. Another issue is that you are not burning the matter in the vessel which significantly reduces heat, yes then there would be much less charcoal but any bit of extra heat will destroy gunk before it even leaves the vessel with the gas which is really important before anything gets filtered. Another issue is that not filtering before cooling results in your cooling solution to get sticky with gunk and even if its just the lowermost part of the mouth it will just constrict more on the worst gas flow inefficent spots. Obviously finding a filter that works at a tempreture like 1000°C is not gonna be easy but even something like a cyclonic filter would help. (I am talking about the simplest possible filter then cooling and then more filtration) Honestly feel like doing the distillation right into the generator is also an issue. If you clean up the product enough letting it sit in any storage will just condensate out any unwanted material, maybe try taking samples of what you make in something and see what happens as you keep them: if there is water in the samples then you need to condense more on cooling step. I doubt the wood is dry at all chemically speaking. Best case would be if you could run the gas through a LIQUID dessicant, tech ingredients has an excellent video on their use and they can be regenerated with waste heat. In this low.-tech scenario cooking out the moisture of the dessicant could just be part of the cooling or right there by the fire itself. The issue with solid dessicants is that they are slow and cats don't tend to release about 1/4th of a trees moisture when they pee...kind of hard sometimes to get a cat to drink enough in the first place. Especially if you wanna have the gas run through any water as a filter, as that filter heats up it will most likely give off water vapors that won't be the hydrogen you are after in the syn-gas and with water in the gas it will just make it harder to run in a generator later. I would also really recommend using gravity as much as possible in the entire line so anything that condenses goes backwards or preferably down so it doesnt constrict the gas or is in the gas. But i am also just a random schmuck on the internet and might be wrong and also not educated in this at all. Basically i think its water in the gas, lack of oxygen in gas, lack of oxygen during pyrolysis (just a tiny bit from the nothing it probably is), lack of pressure on the line from taking too many turns and non-filterable contiminants in the gas. Oh and the engine might be overkill for what this will produce if you wanna go direct to a generator you preferrably want the generator to run consistently instead of powerfully.

People have been making wood-gas generators for a hundred years. There are plans available from people who have done all the R&D. You can buy wood-gas generators all finished and ready to go will all the bugs worked out of them. Why try and re-invent the wheel here...?

Fire needs oxygen to burn, force some air into the system right at the end. Use another one way valve, your system is sealed all the way. Good luck - great idea.

One third of the CO2 in the atmosphere is caused by humanity

Have you tried it on (hardened) carbon steel as well? I know that that might react differently to stainless.

Could you forge in there or would it be too loud

Seems to me that if you open the valve upstream and the engine works better, then your problem is at the carb you're aiming the fuel into. It's sucking in the gas, but also air. Lowering the gas pressure allows more air to get sucked in. Maybe add a 2nd hose you can blow into to add air to the fuel intake mix. That or just back the hose away from the intake so more air can blend in before it gets sucked up.

Really appreciate your putting all of your steps in there, even the failed ones. It helps cull the worst of the ideas, and a lot of learning comes from it. I don't quite get why your running gas both ways into thengasometer and the engine directly, but will assume that that is just for experimentation and would be removed in a "production" run. This video is 2 months old, and I can't wait to look through your channel for a follow up. Thank you.

look up Germany gasification

Numbers man.

Just dip the cooling coil inside the same water bucket as well. This way it also would work upside down so all the tar would get left behind. Also, damp cloth gets dry pretty fast, so won’t be of much use.

May I suggest beginning at the Dakota pit, turn that into a proper rocket stove so fuel is fed from a slide at the side, that also drafts down to the fire. Sure, go ahead and backfeed gas to the burner.

the 2 levers act like the gas jet in the carberater air and gas me when u get the wright setings it ran smother

It would be useful to look at different wood pyrolysis projects. You rather need kind of tiny cistern so you can load a couple hundreds kilos of wood. Excess gasses usually burned to keep reactor heated and they don't need to pass any filtration -- so you can keep your filters resource. In a big chamber you can place outputs at different places so gasses can firstly go up through an unburned wood and then you can switch it down through a charcoal that already formed. Or, may be, pass the output tube along the hot bottom side to crack pyrolysis products even more. Also try to find info about WW2 gasgen vihecles -- they're actually were moving on wood gasses having the wood-burner just inside. May be some special motor there, I don't know. As far as you scale your project up it definitely will become more effective. Not so few such a projects.

Fun video. Thx for sharing.

😊

If you are not after the charcoal you can also turn it into woodgas (combustible carbon monoxide at this stage) by letting some, but not enough air into the glowing charcoal chamber. The Boudoir equilibrium will make sure the outstream is mostly CO. Check for plans of the FEMA wood gasifier. There are great videos about that on YT. The greatest advantage is that it is an open system where the engine sucks the gas flow through the system. No overpressure, and it creates a constant gas flow on its own.

How about wood stove gasket to seal!!

it needs a mix of 1:1 roughly air to woodgas

Maybe you can change idea using turbines to make energy..like heating water and using steam to generate energy

I loved this video. It had it all, success, failure, tension, depression and triumph. The things I was thinking were issues have been mentioned by far more qualified people than me but your experiments have given me the motivation to try something like thing myself, not for a generator but for water heating. Love your channel

mixture is a very fickle beast. Lower pressure, larger volume feed line. Dump the gas into the air filter housing, is sealed and always under vacuum during operation.

Great content. This video can save you a lot of time. ua-cam.com/video/Svw43HTdPss/v-deo.html Your next video could be boring, but it will help you on your end goal. Greetings from South America.

Hi, I enjoyed your proces, I wondered if putting the filters first before the gascollecting chamber wouldn't keep the tar out of the generator en reduces less the gas pressure

Cat litter should turn to mud.

Condensing the water only works if you have a place for it to go other than into your engine.

I appreciate the effort and ingenuity involved here. Nothing that runs on combustion wood is likely "sustainable". Certainly, on any practical scale, woods is not renewable. I have yet to see a wood powered generator (or heater) that does not burn wood faster than wood grows. I have strong suspicions that, given the same scrutiny as the battery industry, this system is likely as bad or worse for the environment. Wood is indisputably a filthy fuel, and I repeat, non-renewable in any real life application.

there is a very big risk that users will reduce the amount they pay to public utility companies-DANGER! You could always dig a small pit line it and fill it with rocks & water, then set a small radiator in front of the exhaust and circulate the water. When the heater is off or once it builds up to a target temp it could recycle the heat with a small fan blowing through the radiator. It can last trough the whole night.

Wouldnt it be easier and more efficient to make a steam turbine and adapt a generator to it? :)

A very expensive way of trying to save money.

Try replacing the wood with charcoal

They use wood gas during the wood

A lot of info to take in but put clearly and balanced with reason.

Hi mate just wondering if this hoist waterproof is it ok to used it out door

It would be more efficient to use steam power and use a wood gas generator to store gas for cooking or as a secondary fuel for steam production. You can also store heat in the ground or in a wall of a building.

While the manufacturers of PAPR systems have R&D costs what they want for them is absurd and beyond the reach of many home shop welders. I am considering the MIRA MB-90 and attaching it directly to my welding helmet.

1:00:30 f**k man, I know this feeling 😁 The only thing I would do differently - after 3 days I would threw the generator into that hole - project closed 🤣

have you thought to use bamboo?

Hello and good day, if you would run a pipe maybe copper or something else. From where you lit the flame to where you have the fire under the kettle, that may help resolve the issue. Max. L

HI YOU GOT A LINK FOR THAT SIEVE

Insisting on producing charcoal for bio-char is an excellent idea. Show us your garden and soil quality, please 🙏